Sometimes travelling with such good looking people in Italy is quite burdensome. Especially in the rain.
Indian street vendor: Bella bella bella! I have umbrella for you! Tree euro! Just tree!
Claire: I have one, thank you.
Indian street vendor: I have special price!
Claire: No.
Indian street vendor: You need an umbrella! Special price! Okay two euro!
Claire: No. I have one. Don’t you see it?
Indian street vendor: Your friend need umbrella!
Claire: She doesn’t. She has an umbrella, too.
Indian street vendor: She need two! I have special price! Just for you bella!
Indian guy proceeds to follow us down the street. We duck for safety into a metro station only to find four more umbrella men holding out their umbrellas to us, too.

…bella?
Anyway, after our little excursion to Loreto and the like, I couldn’t see how the trip couldn’t get any better. But it did.
Can I just say St. Peter’s Basilica is great? Serious understatement alert. It’s mind-blowing. It only took standing in St. Peter’s square to feel so incredibly small…like I was a negligible part of something incredible, which is, well, true, but at the same time I felt like I was home! Take that for a paradox.
Then I got a baby thrown at me and some guy pick-pocketed me.
Just kidding, that didn’t really happen. But had it happened, I would have been prepared. Thanks to warnings from previous Rome-goers about the baby-throwing diversion tactic utilized by Rome’s petty criminals, my friends and I prepared our defense strategy well before the trip. It may or may not have been inspired by Miss Congeniality.
But I digress once again. On to Rome!
Cognitive dissonance might be a good way of describing it…a city rich in ruins of the Roman Empire, the very foundations of Christendom, and…gelato shops, street vendors, and United Colors of Benetton. They all jumbled up together. Like the new Rome was built right around the old. Crazy.
Sunday morning before going into St. Peter’s, a few of us went up to the cupola to say morning prayer with the nuns. You could say it was both literally and spiritually ascetical. I mean, please, we were looking out at Rome while standing just over 150 meters above the bones of St. Peter. After prayer, I was privileged enough to be able to contemplate the plethora of gardens on Roman rooftops with my philosophy professor who, I am excited to admit, is ten times funnier on top of St. Peter’s than he is in class.
Afterward the cupola adventure we descended the 2-foot-wide, sideways, and claustrophobia-inducing stairwell to make it to mass inside….can I say that again? Mass inside St. Peter’s! In Latin! Contrary to whatever you may believe, Latin is not dead.
[Further proof: ATMs in Vatican City have a Latin option]
Being in St. Peter’s is, well, awesome. Just a word of advice? Take care not to get so totally overwhelmed when walking into St. Peter’s as to miss the Pieta, which is just inside to the right. I admit…I had to go back in because I completely missed it the first time I walked in. Anyway, no matter how long you’re there there’s always more to see and more to know. It was phenomenal to be surrounded by just endless holiness, history and symbolism…and humor.

Here we have the monument to Pope Gregory XIV. Pope for less than a year, Gregory XIV was rather unpopular for naming an inept family member as Secretary of State. The church so fondly remembers him with an empty niche set into the wall and a sarcophagus below bearing the inscription “Gregory XIIII.” The tombstone was supposedly recycled from a monument that had been rejected the year that commemorated his predecessor, Gregory XIII.
Well, I found it humorous anyway.
That…among many other quirky design stories made our tour not so much a monotonous explanation of every bishop dressed in white as it was a tangible journey through the history of the church. The early Christians were real people, too. Many thanks to the seminarians at the North American College who walked us through that history.
Sometime during the week we made it to Santa Scala, where we got to ascend the stairs that Jesus climbed to meet Pilate. Imagine a tiny little building just big enough to hold some stairs and a little chapel…mobbed by 170 Frannies trying to ascend the stairs on their knees. The security guard finally came out and had to tell everybody to hurry up because we were spending too long on each stair. The line out the door was getting to be incredibly long…and incredibly restless. Aside from that entertaining anecdote, being on those stairs, well, it makes you think about a lot of things.
Rome has a few other cool things too…you know, like the Coliseum, the Pantheon, the Spanish steps, more relics than I can conceive at any given moment…and a church here and there…and there and there....Not to mention Swiss guards, Scavi Tours, the Basilica of Our Lady of Perpetual Help (!) and much, much much much more.
Did I forget to mention the time we had mass in the Basilica of St. Paul Outside the walls? Probably, but then again I forgot to mention a lot of things.
Have you been to Rome? I think you should go. Take me with you! I will go back!!
If on Monday evening someone’s pedometer read 37 miles since arriving in Rome, I can’t even imagine how much we had walked by Thursday morning when we made our bittersweet departure for Assisi…
Which, God willing, I will document at some point.
Peace and blessings,
Mary